By Jim Jurica
BeautyLook Editor-in-Chief
I get so ANGRY at this industry at times! It seems like every single day, I’m contacted by someone asking me to photograph them for free. I get more of these “offers” than some might think – somewhere between 10 to 50 requests per week. Sometimes they’re for a potential publication or a project, or from a makeup artist who wants to test shoot with me in exchange for referrals for paid work.
More often than not, the unpaid shoot offers come from models who are just first dipping their toes into the world of modeling. It’s all new and fun for the them and they assume that I’m just as excited as they are. And after the last 3,000+ looks I’ve shot, I can assure you… I’m not. I love what I do for a living (model-photography). But I do need to pay my mortgage and a pretty face isn’t tempting enough… 99% of the time.
I can’t think of many business model out there (at least not many legitimate business models ) where a person is asked to work for free. Especially frustrating is the tease of it all… come work with us for free and maybe you’ll get a paid job out of it further down the road. Or exposure. At this stage in my career… i’m just about exposed to death.
Our industry is rife with unpaid opportunities, known as “trade shoots.” There’s so much talent desperately wanting to be published or promoted and so we all end up cutting our teeth with unpaid work to compete and get what we want or need to move forward. In theory, there’s really nothing wrong with this logic, especially at the beginning stages. Nobody wants to take a risk on an unknown quantity, so proving your worth through a test shoot situation is essentially putting your money where your mouth is. You’re investing in your own future by demonstrating your skills.
The problems arise when we get stuck in what I refer to as, “The Trade-Shoot Trap.” Once you’ve established yourself as being willing to work for free… it’s difficult to get out of that hole and start asking for money. I’m not suggesting that new, inexperienced talent go around quoting unrealistically high fees, but rather that you value yourself and time appropriately. And that you be selective about who you do trade shoots for and with.
Models ask me for advice all time about this very issue. And here’s what I tell them:
When starting out, get your portfolio basics done as fast as possible. Pay a pro if you need to, and get a quality portfolio started ASAP without messing around with amateurs who don’t understand the realities of our industry. Watching America’s Next Top Model or owning a ton of camera gear and creating awesome images is NOT the same thing as using your modeling, makeup, or photography skills to pay 100% of the bills every month. Seek out people who actually work in the industry. A little money spent spent upfront on a real pro may save you months of aggravation and disappointment. Just be sure to do your research on who you are hiring.
Trade shoots should be an even exchange of time and talent. Only do trade/unpaid shoots with people who can offer you at least the same quality of work that you already have in your current portfolio. Better yet, save trade shoots for those who can improve the quality of your portfolio.
Use your solid, new portfolio as leverage to get whatever else you need… for free. If you have a great head shot already and you are approached by a new photographer wanting a trade shoot from you for more head shots, you now have a graceful way to decline their offer or ask for payment without bruising their ego. It’s not unreasonable to ask for compensation if the other person is gaining more than you are.
The words “test shoot” and “trade shoot” are often used interchangeably. But my definition of a trade shoot is one where the purpose is for mutual portfolio building. Whereas a test shoot should be not about portfolio building, but rather to prove your abilities to a potential client or for some other lucrative offer, like a print publication.
Free labor… in the model industry it seems we all do it at one point or another to get where we’re going. Just make sure you have a clear vision of where you’re headed and don’t get stuck in the trade shoot trap.
Thanks for letting me vent,
Jim Jurica
www.jimjuricaphotography.com
